Closing the loop with textiles

Kris Barber, owner of Dubai company DGrade, has been working in textiles most of his career, but it was his love of surfing that fueled a desire to rid the world’s oceans of plastic. He just never guessed he’d end up wearing it.

Barber, a U.K. native, over time noticed an increase in plastic waste in the oceans. This is why he decided to make a shift from full-time textile production to sustainable textiles.

“When I came across the technology to convert plastic bottles into clothing, I began to see that recycling could be a significant way to decrease plastic pollution and also provide a sustainable solution for textile production,” he tells KUST Review. He also began organizing beach clean-ups and recycling drives to get his community involved.


CAPTION: Kris Barber IMAGE: DGrade CEO

It was in 2010 when Barber moved with his wife to Dubai and discovered there were no options for sustainably made clothing that he started DGrade.

“When I came across the technology to convert plastic bottles into clothing, I began to see that recycling could be a significant way to decrease plastic pollution and also provide a sustainable solution for textile production,” he tells KUST Review.

He also began organizing beach clean-ups and recycling drives to get his community involved.

“At that time there was very little interest in recycling and sustainability in general, but I knew the market would shift,” he says. “I saw there was a gap in the market for sustainable clothing supply and a necessity for plastic recycling programs.”

DGrade, an eco-clothing company based in Dubai, developed its trademarked Greenspun yarn, in which plastic water bottles are converted into polyester yarn. The plastic flakes are used to create yarn and ultimately fabrics. The Greenspun yarn produces 55 percent fewer carbon emissions, uses 50 percent less energy and 20 percent less water and doesn’t require any oil compared with making conventional polyester yarn.

CAPTION: DGrade recycling factory IMAGE: DGrade

“We can produce more than 200 types of fabric including jersey, quick-dry, twill and denim to make customized clothing and accessories for our (business-to-business) customers.

We manage this production process through our supply-chain partners,” Barber tells KUST Review.


While many other companies around the world are creating fabric out of plastic and those fabrics are being used by household brands such as Nike and Patagonia to create product, DGrade offers full-service partnerships to its business-to-business clients. This means DGrade does it all — from placing the bins to collecting plastic to producing specific clothing items for businesses and then offering advice on possible next phases for the items — thereby assisting its clients with closed-loop recycling.
Closed-loop recycling is the process of collecting goods and reprocessing or recycling them into new, usable products.

Once the clothing is no longer wearable, DGrade encourages its partners to take advantage of clothing charity bins placed around the city. The discarded clothing is passed on to communities, or if not in good enough condition to be re-worn, is shredded and used as filling for pillows and mattresses or made into carpets.

One of DGrade’s partners is YAS Marina Circuit in Abu Dhabi. DGrade collects used water bottles from the venue and events and recycles them at the DGrade Recycling Factory. DGrade also supplies uniforms made from recycled plastic bottles for the Yas Marina Circuit team. This helps the track lower its carbon footprint. DGrade also has a stand set up in the sustainability area during the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix where it can educate the public about closed-loop recycling.

“Through this partnership, Yas Marina Circuit can demonstrate that they divert more than 50,000 plastic bottles from landfill during the Formula 1 event, saving energy, water and carbon emissions,” he says. Every Greenspun T-shirt created saves 25 plastic bottles from landfills, he says.

Though DGrade participates in initiatives like the Yas Marina’s, there is still a lot to be done to reduce plastic waste. In the UAE alone, 4 billion plastic water bottles are manufactured annually, and less than 8 percent are recycled — that means 320 million water bottles end up in landfills every year. Of these, the DGrade Recycling Factory managed to repurpose 60 million in the first six months of 2022. This is due in part because of its Simply Bottles program.

Simply Bottles works with schools and communities to ensure waste made with Type 1 plastic — typically used for water, juice or food containers — is recycled. Participants can choose their level of involvement ranging from collecting plastic to learning about the impact of plastic waste on the environment. More than 250 schools across the UAE participate in the program. Simply Bottles also works with universities, events, hotels and corporations — like Yas Marina Circuit.


CAPTION: Used bottles are collected, washed and shredded; the plastic flakes are heated and turned into polyester fibers; the fiber is spun into yarn; and finally the yarn is spun to make clothing and accessories IMAGE: Shutterstock

“We believe that DGrade can and will play a significant role in helping the UAE government reach their waste and recycling goals for 2030 by facilitating collection and raising awareness of plastic recycling and a closed loop through our Simply Bottles program,” Barber says.

DGrade has been recognized by the Gulf region on numerous occasions. Awards include Best Sustainability Education or Awareness Program (the Gulf Sustainability Awards); silver in Sustainable Project of the Year (Prime Awards Middle East and Africa); and Most Innovative Technology Product for its Greenspun Yarn (International Business Magazine).

What’s next for DGrade?

After providing official uniforms for the UAE hosted COP28 in November 2023, it plans to assist companies with green initiatives. This includes working with them to recycle plastic bottles, delivering employee education and engaging activities to their teams through its Simply Bottles program, as well as supplying sustainably made uniforms

“DGrade is committed to combating pollution by providing sustainable solutions for plastic and textiles. We do our utmost to contribute to a sustainable future every day through our actions and business model. However we also believe that collaboration and commitment from businesses, government and communities is essential to ensuring a sustainable future for generations to come,” Barber says.

2 promising approaches to
treating wastewater

Wastewater treatment protects human as well as environmental health. And it conserves water. Abu Dhabi researchers offer promising approaches using innovative membranes:

Filtering out nutrients

High levels of nutrients sounds like a benefit to an ecosystem, but when an environment sees too many, otherwise known as eutrophication, algal blooms and waters with too little oxygen can kill fish and seagrass, setting off a chain reaction in the ecosystem.

Large amounts of carbon dioxide from the decomposing matter acidify the water, slowing the growth of fish and shellfish. Eutrophication is an economic threat as well — smaller harvests mean more expensive seafood.

“We need to control the levels of nutrients and develop innovative technologies to treat water and remove excess nutrients,” says Shadi Hasan, director of the Khalifa University Center for Membranes and Advanced Water Technology (CMAT), whose team published its research in npj Clean Water.

The KU team developed a composite polylactic acid (PLA) and nanomaterial membrane to remove nutrients from wastewater.

The membrane works via adsorption, the process by which a solid holds molecules, in this case liquid, as a thin film. The team used a functionalized positively charged multi-walled carbon nanotube/graphene oxide hybrid nanomaterial to remove nitrogen (as ammonia) and phosphorus from wastewater while enhancing water permeability. The nutrients are collected in the pores of the nanotubes at the surface of the membrane.

Removing oil from water

Wastewater can be difficult to treat, especially when trying to remove fine oil droplets.

“The large volume of industrial oily wastewater is difficult to treat due to its emulsified fine oil droplet content,” says Linda Zou, a Khalifa University professor. “Conventional membranes experience low separation efficiency and oil fouling issues, which we wanted to overcome.”

Zou and other researchers incorporated molybdenum disulfide (MOS2) nanospheres into a cellulose acetate matrix. MOS2 nanospheres repel water but attract oil — that is, they are oleophilic — whereas the cellulose acetate polymer has high water affinity and is hydrophilic. The membrane is designed to be amphiphilic, meaning it can target and capture oil droplets in a large volume of water. This is important for separation because the membrane has components that attract the oil droplets but can also facilitate the passage of water.

The membrane’s amphiphilic nature also eliminates fouling caused by oil droplets.

The team found the membrane had a high separation efficiency in tests, with greater than 90 percent removal of oil from the diluted oil-in-water mixture. The membrane also had good stability and durability, meaning it could be used repeatedly without losing performance, which makes it a promising material for industrial application.

Dubai film festival celebrates AI

One of the longest strikes in Hollywood history ended recently with a victory for writers and actors who won protections against job-threatening uses of artificial intelligence in the filmmaking process. But Expo City Dubai is embracing the creative potential of the tool with its inaugural Artificial Intelligence Film Festival.

“Through the AI film festival, we are exploring the relationship between creativity and technology, between human ingenuity and artificial intelligence. We recognize that AI plays a role in supporting the understanding, emotional depth and imagination that artists exclusively possess,” says Magd Zoroob, senior vice president of Future Technologies, Expo City Dubai.

“AI opens the door to enthusiasts who may have previously found the industry inaccessible by giving them the tools to supplement and enhance their creativity,” Zoroob adds.

The film festival jury reviewed entries from around the world and narrowed the list to 10 finalists. Members of the public are invited to weigh in on the shortlisted films for a People’s Choice award.

In addition to showcasing finished films, the festival also hosts workshops for aspiring filmmakers as well as discussions about ethical uses of the technology, Zoroob says.

“We are looking for creators who strike a balance and use AI tools to enhance their creativity, bringing it to life in new and exciting ways, while also respecting copyright laws and regulations,” he adds.

Finalists are:

“Buyer Beware” by Christian Fleischer (Germany): In a last-ditch attempt to save his career, a dodgy salesman tries to sell the Earth to aliens, but they refuse his offer, triggering an eruptive event to save humanity.
“The Enfilade of Worlds” by Artem Golenkov (UAE): An exploration of the lives of those who have traveled between worlds – eternal wanderers who have witnessed wonders but lost their homes and identities along the way.
“The Final Ascent” by Emad Khalid (Pakistan): After surviving an avalanche, a lone mountaineer hears a mysterious voice guiding him to the summit.
“My Word” by Carme Puche Moré (Spain): Who defines who we are? What happens when images betray our words? How do we survive in a world that constantly misunderstands us? Follow in the steps of a woman on a journey to define herself.
“One More Pumpkin” by Hansl von Kwon (Republic of Korea): An elderly couple farming pumpkins in a rural Korean village are rumoured to have lived more than 200 years. Once the messengers of death hear about this, they visit the couple to investigate.
“Oracle” by Thibaud and Claire Zamora (France): Dive into the adventures of the Oracle’s guardians as we follow three inseparable friends on their perilous journey, where each step unveils a secret world with challenges to overcome.
“PLSTC” by Laen Sanches (Netherlands): Welcome to the world of PLSTC, an undersea dystopia that submerges you in the disturbing reality of plastic pollution in our oceans. The film confronts the devastating consequences of our habits on marine life.
“The Sad Clown Pagliacci” by Alessandro Carnevale (Switzerland): A sad clown born and raised in a traveling circus decides to leave and follow his dreams.
“The Seed” by Daniel Ortiz (Spain): A solitary man, haunted by a pervasive sense of detachment, shares his troubles with an attentive bartender and seeks solace and answers from his psychiatrist and an enigmatic woman.
“TRETA” by Francesco Siro (Italy): A dreamy fable, full of symbolism, where man is unconsciously controlled by an evil jester, while in another mysterious dimension an advanced civilization of sentient beings lines up for battle.

Winners will be announced at an awards ceremony Feb. 28 at Expo City Dubai. Film fans can view the finalists and vote here.

Making space for women

The UAE is celebrating International Women’s Day a little early this year with news of the first female Emirati astronaut set to graduate from NASA.

Nora Al Matrooshi, NASA class of 2023, will graduate in March 2024 alongside her Emirati counterpart Mohammed Al Mulla, the National reports. The ceremony will take place in Houston, Texas.

Al Matrooshi, an engineer formerly of the National Petroleum Construction Co., was one of two candidates chosen from over 4,000 applicants for the 2021 NASA training program.

When she was initially selected, Al Matrooshi in a media conference said she was inspired to reach for the stars by one of her teachers who would set up a tent in the classroom and ask the students to try to imagine it was a spacecraft en route to the moon.


In 1963, Valentina Tereshkova of Russia became the first woman in space, but the next wasn’t until two decades later.

In 2020, Phys.org reported that only 11.5 percent of the 566 people who have gone to space were women, and the United Nations Space4Women program reports that 20-22 percent of the space workforce is women – virtually unchanged from what it was 30 years ago.

But the flight crews are increasing in female numbers and Al Matrooshi aims to be an inspiration for other young women: “If I can do it, then you can do it too. If no one has done it yet, then you just go ahead and be the first,” she said in a 2021 interview with The National.

This brings the Emirati astronaut count to four as the UAE space program grows and continues to rack up firsts.

CAPTION: International Space Station IMAGE: NASA

The first Emirati astronaut, Hazza al Mansouri, spent eight days aboard the International Space Station in 2022, followed by Sultan Al Neyadi with a six-month stay in 2023 and first Arab space walk.

Al Matrooshi’s graduation coincides with the most recent advancement in the UAE’s space program – a ticket to the moon.

The UAE recently agreed to provide NASA with an airlock for the Gateway lunar station, which will serve as an exchange center for crew and science payloads. The deal comes with UAE access to the station and a lunar mission. The deal comes with UAE access to the station and a lunar mission.

No decisions have been made about which UAE astronauts will be selected for the first UAE lunar mission.

According to NASA, the Lunar Gateway will record its first mission no sooner than 2028.

Ice, ice baby

Life on planet Earth needs water. Fresh water.

Water scarcity affects one-third of the world’s population, approximately 2.3 billion people, with this water crisis tipped to become more acute over the next 50 years as the global population increases.

Yet water covers nearly three-quarters of the planet. It’s salty and unpotable, but a practical, economically viable desalination process could be the answer to our collective thirst.

Credit: Anas AlBounni-KUST Review

The most popular method of desalination is reverse osmosis, where large quantities of seawater are pushed through a semipermeable membrane to remove the salt from the water. Although an effective means to sieve through and catch the salt and other impurities, this is a high-pressure, high-cost process requiring robust pumping and expensive pretreatment. It’s energy-hungry, and while the process has steadily improved and evolved, there are systemic problems, including polluting chemicals, membrane fouling, capacity limitations and expensive construction materials.

Freeze desalination, on the other hand, is a natural process: Ice made from saltwater is salt-free.

Isam Janajreh, professor of mechanical engineering at Khalifa University’s Center for Membranes and Advanced Water Technology, says freeze desalination technology has the potential to avoid common desalination challenges: “Desalination is the solution for water security in regions with insufficient resources but this comes at a high energy cost. Freeze desalination is emerging as an attractive low-energy and less corrosive alternative to providing fresh water.”

Freeze and repeat

The process is simple: Partially freeze the water, during which ice crystals form and grow, displacing impurities into the remaining brine solution. Separate the ice blocks from the brine, wash them off, and melt them back down again to provide clean water.

The salty brine can then be frozen again, forming more ice and another more concentrated brine solution. As the salinity increases, the freezing point dips until it reaches the point where salt crystallizes simultaneously with ice.

So far, however, the process has been limited to laboratories and small pilot plants. Janajreh says this is due to the incurred capital cost and the complex operation of separating the ice and melting it.

“The process of salt rejection during the process is still far from being completely understood, especially when the parameters change. One big challenge is salt entrapment between the ice crystals making a super salty saltwater pocket in the ice. This requires further treatment and recrystallizing, which just raises operating costs.”

Abdul Najim, of the Indian Institute of Technology Bombay, says this is the essential requirement for developing the technology — understanding the process of crystal growth to avoid the saltwater pockets.

“This is a process difficult to study analytically. Numerical models can enable the analysis and visualization of different transport processes and computational fluid dynamics (CFD) modeling can also be a valuable tool,” he says.

Najim also says efforts should be directed toward hybrid models where crystallization, ice separation and thawing are carried out in a single unit. This requires novel crystallizers that can be scaled to industrial capacity — quite the engineering challenge right now. Moving from a batch-mode model to uninterrupted potable-water production should also be the focus of research in this area.

Freeze desalination may be a process seen in nature, but converting it to a manmade industry will still require a lot of energy. Janajreh says freeze desalination needs just half the energy conventional reverse osmosis consumes, but that’s still a tall order.

Pair the process with the cold energy from regasification of liquefied natural gas (LNG) and you could have a solution. Or, stick with batch production and use your home fridge/freezer as Fekadu Melak did.

Removing other contaminants

Melak, assistant professor of environmental biotechnology at Bahir Dar University, Ethiopia, investigated freeze desalination as a water-treatment technology for the tanning industry using home-use freezer units.

“Wastewater generated by leather tanning is one of the major contributing sources of chromium pollution in water. Among the various tanning methods used around the world, more than 90 percent of the leathers tanned globally contain chromium, with 30 to 50 percent of the chromium used in the process leaching into the environment. Freeze-melting and removing the contaminants is an alternative physical process which can be used for desalting.”

It worked. Melak’s study saw efficiency as high as 85 percent for cleaning chromium-spiked tap water, and while technical challenges remain — including washing off the chromium adhered to the ice surface after freezing — the cost of freeze desalination was 50 percent lower than other wastewater-cleaning methods.

“In terms of the water quality produced and how cost-effective it is, freeze desalination is a pertinent option for a desalination technology,” Melak said.
Freeze desalination is gaining traction as a research interest but until projects can scale up to industrial levels, it’s doable at home.